Mississippi Hill Country Sections (North & South) – TransAmerica Trail
In April, we decided to check out what North Mississippi had to offer along the TransAmerica Trail. It had rained the day before, the weather was beautiful and warm, and the mosquitos were still in their slumber.
If I had planned better, we would have been able to see more, I think. Nevertheless, we got to see the beautiful hill country of North Mississippi.
Living in South Mississippi, everything is relatively flat and mostly pine trees, with a few cotton fields here and there. Getting to see the contrast of South Mississippi to North Mississippi was a nice change. There are still tons of tall pines and oak trees with Spanish moss draped over their large, low hanging limbs along the Natchez Trace. As you veer off of the trace and onto the backroads, the dirt and gravel roads open up to freshly picked cotton fields, pastures, and long forgotten pieces of history.
Kevin was pleased to find that the rain from the day before made some areas especially muddy. Mississippi’s red clay had us slipping and sliding down some of the muddy roads, causing us to be in 4WD Low just to get through it. At one point, our truck was driving almost completely sideways down the muddy road. We were relieved once we were able to get it turned in the proper direction, so we could look forward at what was ahead through the windshield and not the driver’s window.
Mississippi History along the Trail
Driving down the winding, dirt county roads, we came across some really unique things. Of course, we saw cotton fields and fields covered in red clover and yellow rapeseed flowers, but dotted throughout were old cemeteries, churches, schools, and other abandoned buildings. The roads seemed to be so far from civilization, and at time, they were, but sometimes, they were right along major highways, byways, and interstates, hidden by thick forest.
West, Mississippi
One of the coolest places that we stopped along our way was a town called West, Mississippi. West was once a booming town, consisting of gas stations, restaurants, pharmacies, mercantile, and a railroad station. The only things that were operational in West was a historical society/museum, post office, bank, and a few churches. Driving around, you could feel the heaviness of the town’s haunting past.
Restaurants
We had suspected that food would be hard to come by way out in the country, so we did pack some snacks and sandwich fixings to cover us for a couple of days. Prior to getting on the trail in Gluckstadt, Mississippi, we stopped at Fleetwood Market to get gas, firewood, and something to eat at The Market Café inside. Kevin said the food was pretty good. I’m not a breakfast eater, so I opted for some cashews.
For lunch on the first day, we stopped at S & S Restaurant in Vaiden, Mississippi. It was a mom & pop dive place, and one of the only choices along I-55 in Vaiden. The special that day was fried catfish, but we opted for hamburgers and french fries all around. Though the burgers were basic and on buns, probably purchased from the nearest Walmart, they were delicious. The quiet country atmosphere, coupled with the chatter of the locals, really gives you that old Mississippi feel. The wait staff were nice and service was great.
If you do happen to stop in, remember to pay before you leave. You order at the counter, have a seat at a table, and pay at the register before you leave.
Puskus Lake
Initially, we had planned to stay a couple of nights along the trail, but unfortunately, due to weather conditions of the second night, we chose to come home, instead.
Puskus Lake Recreational Area in Holly Springs National Forest (34.43689*N, 89.35260* W) was our home for the first night of our adventure. It is an established campground, maintained by the US Forestry Service. There is a fee of $3 for day use and $7 for camping. Boating, fishing, hiking, and camping are popular activities in this recreational area.
After arriving, we drove around to find the perfect campsite. There were several other people there already. All but about 2 sites were right on the lake, so there were lots of great locations to choose from. The bathrooms are directly in the center of the campground, so they are relatively accessible for everyone. It is important to note that there are no electrical hook-ups, and it is suggested that you purchase firewood at a local convenience store instead of harvesting it from the forest.
Camping
We chose a campsite directly near the boat launch, fishing pier, and not too far from the dumpster. It sounds a little grotesque, but it really wasn’t all that bad. I wouldn’t recommend the location in the summer though, as the heat will warm the stench that will ultimately waft into that campsite. In the summer months, I would suggest camping on the west side of the campground.
Despite having other campers nearby, it was really quiet. The loudest birds on the lake were geese at 2 am that wouldn’t stop honking and a very angry duck that was probably fighting off something from taking her eggs, I would assume. The song of the hoot owl lulled me back to sleep anytime the other birds would wake me up.
Back on the Trail
Our second day on the Trail took us down a few more dirt roads.
Ancestral Pilgrimage
Not long after getting back on the trail, we headed toward Cherokee, Alabama for my ancestral pilgrimage. Cherokee is located right along the Mississippi and Alabama state-line. I’ll make a post later detailing what an ancestral pilgrimage is and what you can find on your pilgrimage.
Coming Home
Like I said before, it was supposed to be rainy and cold the second night of our trip. With that in mind, we decided to head home from Cherokee.
Along the way, we found several places of interest that we would like to come back to. Brice’s Crossroads National Battlefield and Okolona Confederate Cemetery are a couple of places we would like to visit. US history is an interest for our family, even though Luka doesn’t seem to care at the moment.
Meridian
Unexpectedly, we found our route home went through Meridian, Mississippi. As we passed the first exit, I asked, “Do you think we could go to Weidmann’s?” Kevin thought about it for a second and replied, “Yeah, we haven’t been in awhile. Let’s go there.”
We took a different exit than we normally take, and it took us through the less desirable part of Meridian along the railroad tracks. The road was lined with tall weeds and rundown abandoned buildings that were once something in their glory. It didn’t take us long to get to the revitalized part of the downtown area.
At the light, we made a right, and there she was, Weidmann’s. We parked along the street, and jumped out, hungry from the day’s adventure.
Weidmann’s
Weidmann’s is the oldest, still operational, restaurant in Mississippi. It was established in 1870, during a time of horse drawn carriages and buggies and Meridian’s booming economy.
They serve homemade peanut butter in clay crocks. The original crocks are long gone, but the ones they use currently were reproduced locally. Local fine art covers the walls and are available for purchase. The restaurant is two-stories with a bar downstairs and one upstairs as well. A small balcony has a few small tables as a dining option upstairs. The bathrooms are upstairs, however, they do have an elevator in the lobby for convenience.
The treasure chest is a tradition at this restaurant. As a child, I loved the treasure chest. Inside are all kinds of little prizes, plastic rings, bouncy balls, plastic necklaces, etcetera, reserved only for those that finish their kid’s meal.
Walking in, we were the least dressed people there. I had mud smeared on my black Nike leggings, hiking boots, and maroon Adidas hoodie. My baseball cap covered my unwashed, pulled back hair. Kevin was in similar attire, opting for khaki pants instead of leggings. Luka, well, Luka was in his sweats from the night before.
Against the well dressed diners and prom couples, we definitely looked out of our element. Regardless, our money was just as good as anyone else’s, I reminded myself.
Recommended Menu Items
Bourbon Milk Punch is a signature drink for Weidmann’s, or at least, it is in my mind. It is my go to drink. Their Ramos Gin Fizz was a delight as well, since I haven’t been able to make my routine New Orleans trips in a few years.
Luka and I split a filet mignon that was absolutely divine and Kevin had the Redfish 1870, which he devoured. For desert, we shared a praline créme brûlée that was magnificent. As always, it is a family favorite.
After our bellies were full, we continued the drive back home. We enjoyed our trip, but we were ready to be in our warm, clean beds again.
We hope to bring you more informative and interesting posts about the TransAmerica Trail, as we are sure to find our way back onto it soon.
